Puff Piece

By Isabelle Pringle

Photo by Madi Langley & Bailey Loban

Sleek, edgy looks wane as billowing sleeves sweep over the fashion landscape of 2020.

It could be said that at the Screen Actors Guild Awards in 2019, a puff sleeve revolution was brewing. At the Golden Globes award ceremony for BlacKkKlansman, Actress Laura Harrier wore a flowing, magenta Loewe gown that kicked off the renaissance for feminine embellishments. This style moment had fashion editors discussing her sleeves—off-the-shoulder, drooping bell sleeves—  all over the world from LA to the UK. Harrier says in an interview with Extra TV that she “wanted something princess-y,” and for certain, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe delivered on that request.

So when did this obsession with femininity again (especially in the form of sleeves) really take flight?

Notoriously ladylike designers such as Valentino and Carolina Herrera began implementing voluminous, full sleeves into recent collections, and as a result, the rest of the world began to catch on. This return to the delicate side of fashion could be a result of the “Me Too” movement. Women have been conditioned to hardening themselves as a protective shell against the sexual harassment horrors of the world. This tough exterior translated into clothing that was particularly popular as a sign of the times. Dark, moody colors and slick, often leather pieces reigned. 

Recently, times are evolving as sexual misconduct is much more of an open discussion and finally considered a serious issue in more and more fields. The result of these women being open and honest about their experiences helped give way to a new light in the world of fashion. Pastels, florals, ruffles, and all girlish ornamentations seemingly rushed back into popularity. A recent example of this was the massive amount of stars at the recent Golden Globes Awards wearing big, puffy sleeves. Cate Blanchett took a turn in a luminous, lemon Mary Katrantzou gown with a bedazzled chest-piece while Olivia Colman ravished in a red Emilia Wickstead column dress with, of course, epic sleeves. 

Released this past Valentine’s day, Autumn de Wilde’s hotly-anticipated revamp of Jane Austen’s Emma put the puff sleeve in action as showcased through costume designer Alexandra Byrne’s glorious work. In a more classical version of the puff sleeve (a little more cap sleeve, but with volume), protagonist Emma Woodhouse is bound to charm even the most fickle suitor. While praising historical icons like Austen herself for a sleeve revolution initially, consider thanking Harrier for a puff sleeve revival for the modern world.